Men’s Trend 2015: Between New Dandy and Gender-FreeEfesti
What are the latest trends in men’s fashion? If some of them can be read in the light of Roland Barthes and his writings about dandyism, for the other is the sociologist Zygmunt Bauman to be called into question. In a postmodern society, defined by him as liquid, continuous flow, fashion how does the fashion behave? The question arises because of the raging debate in recent weeks in which some argue that the experimentations in the latest man catwalks are a direct descendent. We try to understand the reasons.
We start from the “Pitti Uomo 2015” that this year presented clothes and accessories related to dandyism, although carried in the contemporary world. Differing from the historical dandyism that had as target the search of absolute beauty and the lifestyle as a work of art, the contemporary dandyism has the same target as a reference point but adds up a further touch of glitz and vanity that previously was not present. The dandy, born as a niche phenomenon , a way to differentiate yourself and move above the crowd, has become for several years now a mass-trend, taking away most of its differentiation and uniqueness. There is however a rediscovery of the pleasure of dressing up following the old traditions with a particular attention to the accessory and the tailored suits. In fact, it’s the customer who has become a stylist through the mediation of the craftsman who brings to birth fully customized clothing and accessories that reflect the personal style of the customer: “The New Dandy is an ostentation of things that belong more to the wearer than to those who have designed or produced them”.
If at “Pitti Uomo 2015” the stereotype peak is still the New Dandy,on the catwalks of Milan, Paris, London and New York – seems that there is still an objective to redefine the classic image of man in “jacket and pants”. Placed in a shaker, clothes and accessories commonly associated with the female gender as well as the heads of the typical work wear, are mixed with the menswear, offering a vestimentary drink with a neutral aftertaste where opposites cancel each other in response to the dictatorship of the moment: make men and women equal. Any reference to a classic and traditional style has disappeared, The connotations of gender as well, these clothes have brought down limits and specifics, becoming gender-free. And it’s in this way that the same fur, the same pair of pants, the same silk blouse or the same brooch have become part of a man’s wardrobe. Originally inspired by an androgynous body, the new men’s fashion is deliberately hybrid, melee and contaminates deliberately, offering unisex clothes that only worn become male or female. Nothing but the right style.